![]() Alongside are the kind of folded, steamed bao you now see in nearly every Asian fast food spot. In actuality, the ribs should be singular and the bun plural, since the dish consists of a single humongous beef rib, somewhat resembling the sort found at the city’s Texas barbecues. Less successful is “grilled beef ribs with steamed bun” ($21.95). Sometimes this awesome creativity runs off the rails, though. The contrast of the raw garlic’s pungency and the pork belly’s blandness proves unforgettable, and there’s no better dish for audience participation in town. Underneath, a receptacle of chile oil with a wad of mashed garlic is destined for dipping. Looking like thin slices of pale bacon, poached pork belly hangs over a dowel like laundry on a line, interspersed with slices of shaved cucumber. Take the first item on a menu: sliced pork belly with chile garlic sauce ($10.95). Part of the appeal of both Mountain Houses is dramatic platings. Szechuan Mountain House’s dining room, inspired by villages in the mountains In addition to Sichuan standards and Sichuan-themed inventions, it borrows dishes from other regions, leaping from Hunan to Dongbei to Beijing to Hong Kong. But far from mounting a menu obsessed with the rural or even the urban food of Sichuan, the bill of fare is an eclectic document. Enclosed bamboo booths trail off into an interior decorated with pottery and other elements, intended to evoke the eponymous mountain retreat. It grabbed the second-floor space formerly occupied by Grand Sichuan, itself an early advocate of the Sichuan peppercorns that have become ubiquitous in the neighborhood.Ī stone-clad koi pond and burbling waterfall confronts you upon entering the space. More recently, a branch daringly opened on St. Opening on an interior courtyard of a new shopping and hotel complex off Prince Street, Szechuan Mountain House was an instant hit among well-heeled dating couples out for an evening of innovative food in a romantic atmosphere. Some featured rustic elements meant to evoke Chinese villages others were more East Village-y, with exposed concrete surfaces, deejays, and futuristic light fixtures. Eschewing the bursts of red and communal tables of their predecessors, these places flaunted stylish interiors with intimate seating. The original Szechuan Mountain House was one among a raft of modern and more expensive Sichuan restaurants to hit Flushing during the last three years.
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